Reviews: O Pedro

I’m not one to usually condone modifying something that is already good. And as much as I love the folks at The Bombay Canteen, on hearing about their upcoming launch of a Goan spot in BKC’s expanses a few months back, I wasn’t the most enthused.

A lot of this initial reluctance boils down to my love for simple, authentic Goan fare- food that I’ve had the good fortune to savour, both on extended vacations with family friends in the state and the no-nonsense tables at Martin’s in Colaba (review here)

But after a lazy lunch at O Pedro earlier this week, I couldn’t be happier to have been wrong about them- for this place lends a touch of susegad to an otherwise chaotic city with interiors and food that evokes memories of all things Goan while somehow still managing to surprise the palate.

Airy ceilings, terracotta flooring and seating comfortingly reminiscent of granddad’s planter chairs in Kerala, the decor is a nod to the many shacks found in and around the Goan coastline and it is dangerously easy to while away an hour (or three), perusing their extensive food and bar menu while basking in cheery sunlight if you visit them in the afternoon.

The menu is an eclectic mix of timeless Goan favourites and modern takes on conventionally coastal flavours. Wanting to sample a little of everything, we ordered a lunch plate and an assortment of small plates through the course of our meal.

Spicy and refreshingly tangy, our first order of their Chicken Kokum Chilly Fry comprises hearty chunks of kokum laced chilly chicken and a fresh cabbage slaw ensconced in a soft rice flour bhakri. Packed with bold bright flavours the roll is small, yet surprisingly enjoyable to dig into.

The Choriz Poee on their afternoon menu is another winner right off the bat and it’s easy to see why. Freshly buttered poee, caramelised onions, gorgeous fatty Goan choriz and a sunny side up with a yolk that oozes and glistens till every last bit is mopped up- what’s not to like?

They have a few lunch plate options on offer, each of them being a simple mishmash of coastal staples. Give Beryl’s Fish Curry a try, and I promise you won’t leave dissatisfied.

Delicately spiced with a tinge of sweetness, the curry is made even better with flaky, perfectly cooked chunks of red snapper; I guess it should come as no surprise that Chef Cardoz’s mum (who happens to be the dish’s namesake) whips up a mean curry! Paired with fluffy Goan rice, futi kadhi (tangy kokum water) and a foogath (stir fried greens with fresh coconut) that changes everyday, this is a hearty, absolutely delicious plate of food that screams comfort in every mouthful.

Perhaps one of the more familiar small plates on offer, the Nish-Te Rava Fry is essentially black pomfret coated in a well spiced marinade and tossed in semolina or rava before being fried to golden perfection. How the folks at O Pedro managed to add a distinct lightness to what is characteristically an oily fish is beyond me, but the crisp fillets are a pleasure to savour especially when dunked in their creamy green thecha chutney.

Despite every dish ordered being well above par, my favourite of the lot was their Red Snapper Poke- a dish so unexpectedly sublime that we had to order it twice! The light lemon juice cured cubes of red snapper are served in a coconut milk base that words couldn’t possibly do justice to. Flavoured with chillies, garlic, bits of raw mango and tender coconut, this “coconut curry” as the menu calls it, elevates the humble poke to utterly satisfying levels of Goan goodness. Refreshing yet creamy, simple yet sophisticated, it really would be a shame to visit O Pedro without sampling this beauty.

Despite being more than willing to order another portion of poke as dessert, we settled for a couple of actual dessert options from their menu- a small glass of Serradura that formed part of our lunch plate and a couple of portions of their chocolate and olive oil mousse, courtesy of our lovely server.

If you love all things citrus, the Serradura is unlikely to disappoint. Arranged much like an English trifle, the dish comprises of layers of condensed milk, whipped cream, crumbly bits of biscuit topped with fresh orange segments and a delish orange caramel. Not too sweet or cloyingly heavy, the Serradura lets you enjoy a bunch of elements of varying textures, that somehow work exceedingly well together.

I’m not a huge fan of chocolate, but the mousse was surprisingly good too! Luxuriant and perfectly set, the dish is topped with a generous serving of mascarpone cream, a hazelnut tuille and a sprinkle of salt. The liberal drizzle of fresh olive oil however, is what really made it for me- while the addition may not be to everyone’s taste, we wiped our ramekins clean without a complaint.

The service was super friendly, but its hard to expect much else when a large chunk of their staff were formerly part of the TBC team. A special shoutout to Niketa who patiently bore our repeated requests for the menu, indulged us as we chattered away and didn’t judge us for the large quantities of food we eventually forced down our gullets.

Dishing out winners across the board and seemingly immune to the flaws most newly opened restaurants find themselves subject to, O Pedro has satisfied my usually prissy food soul in a manner no place has in recent past- and for that (and their divine poke), I am immensely grateful.

And whether Goan fare is a new find or an old flame, I would gladly recommend a visit if you find yourself in the Bay. 🙂